Pamukkale Beyond the Terraces

Pamukkale means Cotton Castle in Turkish and when you see the white travertine terraces cascading down the hillside, the name makes perfect sense. These natural formations were created over thousands of years by calcium-rich thermal water flowing down the slope and leaving behind white mineral deposits. The result is a landscape that looks like it belongs on another planet.

Most visitors come for the terraces and spend an hour or two walking through the warm pools before heading back to their hotel. But if that is all you do, you are missing half of what makes Pamukkale special. The ancient city of Hierapolis sits right on top of the terraces and it deserves just as much of your time.

Hierapolis was founded as a thermal spa city in the 2nd century BC and it thrived for centuries because of the same hot springs that draw tourists today. The ruins are extensive. The ancient theatre is one of the best preserved in Turkey, with seating for 12,000 people and intricate carvings along the stage building that are still sharp and detailed.

The necropolis is the largest ancient cemetery in Anatolia. Hundreds of tombs line the road leading north from the city, ranging from simple rock-cut graves to elaborate sarcophagi and mausoleum buildings. Walking through it is a strange and beautiful experience, especially in the late afternoon when the light is soft.

Cleopatra's Pool is one of the more unusual swimming experiences you can have. It is an ancient thermal pool where submerged Roman columns and stone fragments litter the bottom. The water is warm, around 36 degrees celsius, and mildly fizzy from the natural carbonation. There is an additional entry fee but floating among ancient ruins is not something you get to do very often.

The best strategy for visiting Pamukkale is to arrive in the afternoon, enter from the south gate, and walk up through the terraces to Hierapolis. The light on the white terraces is best in the late afternoon and by that time most of the tour bus crowds have left. Bring a plastic bag for your shoes since you have to walk barefoot on the terraces and the ground can be slippery.

If you are staying overnight in the town of Pamukkale, go back to the terraces at sunset. The white formations turn pink and gold as the sun goes down and it is genuinely one of the most beautiful things you will see in Turkey. The night entrance is less common so you may have large sections to yourself.

Do not skip Pamukkale just because it is a bit out of the way. It is one of those places that rewards the effort of getting there. The combination of natural wonder and ancient history in one spot is rare and it sticks with you long after you leave.