A First Timer's Guide to Cappadocia

Cappadocia is one of those places where every photo you have seen does not do it justice. The landscape is genuinely surreal. Towering rock formations called fairy chimneys, valleys in every shade of pink and orange, and entire cities carved underground. It feels like another planet.

Most people come for the hot air balloon ride and yes, you absolutely should do it. Watching the sunrise from a balloon drifting over the valleys is one of those once in a lifetime experiences that actually lives up to the hype. Book in advance because flights sell out, especially in peak season. And be prepared for an early wake up call, you will be picked up around 4:30am.

But Cappadocia has so much more to offer beyond the balloons. The valley hikes are incredible and surprisingly uncrowded. Rose Valley is the most popular and for good reason, the rock formations glow pink and gold in the afternoon light. Love Valley is famous for its unusually shaped pillars. Pigeon Valley connects Goreme to Uchisar and has some of the best panoramic views in the region.

The underground cities are something else entirely. Derinkuyu is the deepest and most impressive, stretching eight levels below the surface. Early Christians carved these cities to hide from invaders and they could shelter thousands of people for months at a time. Walking through the narrow tunnels and chambers is claustrophobic but fascinating.

Stay in a cave hotel if you can. Goreme is full of them, ranging from budget to luxury. Sleeping in a room carved out of rock is a unique experience and most of the better ones have terraces with views over the town where you can watch the balloons go up at sunrise without leaving your bed.

Goreme Open Air Museum is the cultural highlight. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site with rock-cut churches dating back to the 10th century. Some of the frescoes inside are remarkably well preserved. Get there early in the morning to avoid the tour bus crowds.

For food, try pottery kebab, a Cappadocian specialty where meat and vegetables are slow cooked in a sealed clay pot and then dramatically cracked open at your table. Testi kebab is the local name for it. Most restaurants in Goreme serve it but the cave restaurants do it best.

The best time to visit is April to June or September to October. Summer gets very hot and the balloon flights are more likely to be cancelled due to wind. Winter is cold but beautiful if there is snow on the fairy chimneys, and prices drop significantly.

Rent an ATV or a scooter if you want to explore at your own pace. The roads between the valleys and viewpoints are manageable and it gives you the freedom to stop wherever you want. Sunset at Uchisar Castle or the Red Valley viewpoint is worth planning your afternoon around.